About Online Shopping off

About Us

We are a Veteran Owned Small Business with over 35K reviews on ebay. To check them out, click here.

Shipping

Your item will ship in a nondescript box or bubble mailer with tracking, signature required, and insurance when necessary.

When ordering multiple items, order them together to save on shipping. Multiple items ordered separately may result in your order being delayed an additional day.

 

Guaranteed Authentic

All our items are 100% Authentic and genuine. We have EXTENSIVE training in counterfeit coins and currency. There is an astronomical amount of counterfeit coins out there. We have intentionally purchased coins directly from China, so that all our employees have them to reference to PREVENT buying them. These coins were used in an actual ANA counterfeit detection class, which was attended by all our employees. We have also won awards for our counterfeit display at coin shows.

Accurate Grading

        

Of course, grading is subjective. It is simply an opinion. You know, everyone has one. We grade strictly in accordance with the ANA Grading Standard. Our Chief Grader, Bill, finished in the top of the ANA Summer Seminar Advanced Grading Class. This class is taught by senior graders at PCGS, NGC, and ANACS. He is also an authorized dealer for these grading services.

Terms & Conditions

  • Item Availability - Please note that we have a retail coin shop, an e-commerce site, and attend an average of two coin shows a month. Sometimes our inventory gets sold locally, and we don’t have a chance to remove it from the site yet. If that happens, we will immediately refund your money. We are literally a small three employee business.
  • Postage - Most of our listings have free shipping. Please bear in mind that our postal charges include actual postage costs, and packaging which is AT LEAST $5 per package. We do not ship internationally, as we had too many "lost packages".
  • Dispatch Times - We normally ship your order via First Class Mail within one day of payment. Unless we are at a show, then the next business day. Once your order has shipped, the tracking information will be automatically uploaded into your eBay account. Your item will probably take up to five days for delivery. We ship thousands of coins a year, about 2% take up to 3-4 weeks. USPS will NOT update the item location in transit, do not expect them to. If the item is lost in the mail (this happens in less than 1% of shipments), we will refund your purchase price. We abide by the USPS definition for a lost item: " not delivered within 30 days of shipment".
  • 100% 14 Day Money Back Guarantee - Most of our items have a NO QUESTIONS ASKED return policy. We really do not mind returns at all. About 1 out of every 100 coins we sell are returned. We do NOT accept returns for certified coins, bullion, or rolls of coins. VERY IMPORTANT: We ONLY accept returns IF and ONLY IF the item has not been removed from the original holder we shipped it in. If you do not love the item, I encourage you to return it.

Our Credentials off

Anyone can tell you the value of a Coin.

It takes the right knowledge and experience to do it honestly.

At our store, all of our employees are either certified or in the process of getting certified by the American Numismatic Association (ANA).

 

Bill Latour:

 

ANA Certified in Advanced Grading of United States Coins and Problem Coins. The course is conducted by the three top Grading companies at the ANA.

 

ANA Certified in Early American Coppers Society

 

American Numismatic Association Life Member (LM-6242)

 

Florida United Numismatists Life Member (LM-970)

 

South Carolina Numismatics Association Life Member (LM-168),

 

North Carolina Numismatics Association Life Member (LM-166)

 

Low Country Coin Club Member since 1989

 

Society of Silver Dollars Collectors Life Member (LM-150).

 

SCNA Executive Board Member (Since 2012)

 

SCNA Bourse Chairman (Since 2018). Which means he runs the largest show in the Carolinas (200+ tables)

 

 

John:

 

Low Country Coin Club Secretary since 2018

 

Low Country Coin Club Member since 2012

 

American Numismatic Association Member since 2013

 

South Carolina Numismatics Association Member since 2019

 

Florida United Numismatists Member since 2014

 

ANA Certified in “Advanced Numismatic Digital Photography”

 

ANA Numismatic Scholar


About Us

About Us

We are a Veteran Owned Small Business with over 35K reviews on ebay. To check them out, click here.

Shipping

Your item will ship in a nondescript box or bubble mailer with tracking, signature required, and insurance when necessary.

When ordering multiple items, order them together to save on shipping. Multiple items ordered separately may result in your order being delayed an additional day.

 

 Guaranteed Authentic

All our items are 100% Authentic and genuine. We have EXTENSIVE training in counterfeit coins and currency. There is an astronomical amount of counterfeit coins out there. We have intentionally purchased coins directly from China, so that all our employees have them to reference to PREVENT buying them. These coins were used in an actual ANA counterfeit detection class, which was attended by all our employees. We have also won awards for our counterfeit display at coin shows.

Accurate Grading

Of course, grading is subjective. It is simply an opinion. You know, everyone has one. We grade strictly in accordance with the ANA Grading Standard. Our Chief Grader, Bill, finished in the top of the ANA Summer Seminar Advanced Grading Class. This class is taught by senior graders at PCGS, NGC, and ANACS. He is also an authorized dealer for these grading services.

Terms & Conditions

  • Item Availability – Please note that we have a retail coin shop, an e-commerce site, and attend an average of two coin shows a month. Sometimes our inventory gets sold locally, and we don’t have a chance to remove it from the site yet. If that happens, we will immediately refund your money. We are literally a small three employee business.
  • Postage – Most of our listings have free shipping. Please bear in mind that our postal charges include actual postage costs, and packaging which is AT LEAST $5 per package. We do not ship internationally, as we had too many “lost packages”.
  • Dispatch Times – We normally ship your order via First Class Mail within one day of payment. Unless we are at a show, then the next business day. Once your order has shipped, the tracking information will be automatically uploaded into your eBay account. Your item will probably take up to five days for delivery. We ship thousands of coins a year, about 2% take up to 3-4 weeks. USPS will NOT update the item location in transit, do not expect them to. If the item is lost in the mail (this happens in less than 1% of shipments), we will refund your purchase price. We abide by the USPS definition for a lost item: ” not delivered within 30 days of shipment”.
  • 100% 14 Day Money Back Guarantee – Most of our items have a NO QUESTIONS ASKED return policy. We really do not mind returns at all. About 1 out of every 100 coins we sell are returned. We do NOT accept returns for certified coins, bullion, or rolls of coins. VERY IMPORTANT: We ONLY accept returns IF and ONLY IF the item has not been removed from the original holder we shipped it in. If you do not love the item, I encourage you to return it.

 

 


Interested In Investing In Gold?

If so, here is some information to make sure you are making the right choice.

 

Here are a few things to know:

 

The 20 – 100 rule applies when gold pricing is relatively steady. $20 over spot for 1/10th oz and $100 over for 1 oz gold coins and bullion.
When gold is trending slowly upwards, this rule becomes 30 – 150.
When gold is forecast to rise faster, this rule becomes 50 – 200.
When gold is sinking, this rule becomes 20 – 80.

 

Don’t be afraid of higher premiums for certified, and reputably graded raw (uncertified) collectible gold coins. The premium should carry-over when you sell them. However, as with any collectible coin, make sure the dealer proves to you the authenticity, grade, and value (using “CDN Greysheet” or recent actual verifiable sales records on-line) of the coin.

 

A significant number of U.S. Gold coins pre-1930 are counterfeits. Ensure the dealer proves to you the authenticity of the coin using “United States Gold Counterfeit Detection Guide”. If the dealer does not have this reference for authentication, of raw gold coins, do NOT purchase the coin.

 

Have the dealer demonstrate the use of a spectrometer for testing the gold, and verify it is used for the coin you would like to purchase. This ensures you are not being sold a plated counterfeit. If they don’t have one, don’t buy the coin.

 

Get a receipt and ensure the receipt contains the dealer’s contact information, and accurately describes what you are purchasing.


Why 90% Silver?

What is 90% silver?

 

It is the old halves, quarters, and dimes. The cut-off date is anything 1964 and before. The amount of silver in each is proportional. A quarter has 2.5 times the amount of silver in a dime. The half dollar has twice the amount of silver in a quarter.

 

While the extreme vast majority of dealers across the country sell 90% silver at a 25% - 30% premium,

 

LOW COUNTRY COINS only charges a 25%* premium above Spot (stock market) value.

 

The 25%* is variable and is typically 2%* less than the largest precious metals companies would pay you for it.

 

This is also 6% - 7%* below what they sell it to the public for. Why? By selling directly to the public, it saves us the registered mail shipping and the insurance charges commensurate with the heavy packing.

 

Spot: per troy ounce (the value at that moment)
Intrinsic Metal Value: worth based on the composition

 

We sell it in face value (FV) bags of $10 (20 halves, 40 quarters, and 100 dimes).

 

This is how we calculate our 90% silver prices:
Spot x 0.715 = intrinsic silver value of $1 FV

 

Your cost would be, Spot x 0.715 x 1.25* x FV
At LOW COUNTRY COINS, that is all you pay, whether cash or debit.

 

For example, assuming Spot is $25, a $10 FV bag would cost:
$25 x 0.715 x 1.25* x $10 = $223.43 = $224

 

Why 0.715 toz? One dollar face value of new Silver 90% coins weighs 0.72234 toz regardless of the combination of dimes, quarters and halves used. That value was used industry wide through 2007, whether or not the coins were circulated. In 2007, we weighed 5000 circulated mercury dimes and calculated the 0.715 toz. We began using the circulated weight value for all 90% coinage. Most all of the industry has since followed suit.

*values subject to change based on market conditions


What Is Worth Getting Appraised?

Have you ever wondered if your 1776-1976 Quarter or Half Dollar is worth more than face value?

The general rule of thumb is that if you got it in change, and unless it’s an error or variety, it is worth face value.

 

BRING IN:

U.S. Government Packaging (U.S. Mint): Proof Sets, Mint Sets, and Commemoratives
Precious Metals: Gold Bullion (99%), Silver Bullion (99%), Titanium, Platinum, Palladium, Gold and Silver Coins.

 

DOLLARS:
Presidential: 2007-2020 Missing Edge Lettering ONLY
Sacagawea: 2000-P Cheerios, Detailed Tail Feathers
Susan B. Anthony: 1979-P Near Date/Wide Rim
Eisenhower: Silver and Clad. The clad are worth face value, but banks don’t like them.
They might even tell you to bring them to us.
Any Dollar 1935 and Older

 

HALF DOLLARS:
All Half Dollars 1964 and older are 90% Silver
All Half dollars 1965 through 1970 are 40% Silver
1992-S to Present-S Uncirculated Silver Proof: some have Silver, others are copper-nickel. When you look on the rim, if it is white, it is likely Silver.

 

QUARTERS:
All Quarters 1964 and older are 90% Silver
1992-S to Present-S Uncirculated Silver Proof: some have Silver, others are copper-nickel. When you look on the rim, if it is white, it is likely Silver.
“W” West Point Mintmark on National Park 2019-2020

 

DIMES:
All Dimes 1964 and older are 90% Silver
1992-S to Present-S Uncirculated Silver Proof: some have Silver, others are copper-nickel. When you look on the Rim, if it is white, it is likely Silver.

 

NICKELS:
War Nickels 1942-P to 1945 have 35% Silver (Mintmark above Monticello’s dome)
Any Jefferson Nickel (pre-1960)
All 1937 and Older (Buffalo, Liberty, Shield, 3 Cent Nickels, & 3 Cent Silver)

 

CENTS:
Any Cent 1958 and older (including Half, Large, 2 Cents, and 3 Cents)

 

CURRENCY:
Any 1934 and Older, including Confederate, Obsolete, Fractional, and "Hawaii" Note, 'Yellow Seal' North Africa
Military Payment Certificate (MPC)
Barr Notes: Series 1963B are worth $1.50 - $3.00

 

FOREIGN:
Any precious metal such as Gold or Silver.
General Rule is anything older than World War I (1918)
We will buy ALL foreign coins.

 

For more information on some specific coins, read our article, “What is my coin worth?”

 

Now that you have a general idea, we ask that you please pre-sort your items before coming in. It will help the process go faster. Please sort by denomination then type. For example, separate the Indian Head Cents from the Wheat Cents, the silver Dimes from the non-silver ones, and the Large Notes from Small Notes. Plastic baggies and envelopes are fine for temporary storage.

 

If you have a significant number of items, we also ask that you please make an appointment. That way if we already have a large estate coming, you won’t have to wait.

 

P.S. Do NOT clean any of it.

 

TAKE TO THE BANK OR SPEND:

 

DOLLARS:
Circulated Presidential, Sacagawea, Native American, and Susan B. Anthony

 

HALF DOLLARS:
1971 to Present, including Bicentennial

 

QUARTERS:
1965 to Present, including Bicentennial

 

DIMES:
1965 to Present

 

NICKELS:
1938 to Present, excluding War Nickels mentioned above.

 

CENTS:
1959 to Present

 

CURRENCY:
1935 to Present, including regular size Silver Certificates. You can bring in the 'Modern' Series that are worth Face Value, such as 1960's. When a new collector comes in, we would trade them Face Value to help them get started collecting. Otherwise, banks have to send them off and the Government shreds them.

 

FOREIGN:
Some Banks will Exchange with you if you are a member. They will only take Current Currencies such as: GBP, CAD, AUD, and NZD. Call your local bank for details. We do exchange some currencies.

 

For more information on some specific coins, read our article, “What is my coin worth?”

 

And of course, there are always exceptions to every rule.

 

Now that you have a general idea, we ask that you please pre-sort your items before coming in. It will help the process go faster. Please sort by denomination then type. For example, separate the Indian Head Cents from the Wheat Cents, the silver Dimes from the non-silver ones, and the Large Notes from Small Notes. Plastic baggies and envelopes are fine for temporary storage.

 

If you have a significant number of items, we also ask that you please make an appointment. That way if we already have a large estate coming, you won’t have to wait.


What is My Coin Worth?

Mark my words, you are going to drive yourself nuts trying to figure out what your coins are worth by looking on the internet. I get calls EVERYDAY from people just like you trying to figure it out. The prices you find on those coin certification websites and coin values websites DO NOT REFLECT REALITY. Literally, every few days someone tells me “Google says…” My reply is simple. “Sell it to google then.” Or “I saw this coin on You-Tube and I have the exact same coin.” 103% of the time (Yes I said that) they did not listen to the details. I have even had people list their coin on eBay for a ridiculously inflated price, print off their own listing, and then come in to sell the coin referencing their own (unsold) eBay listing. Believe it or not, eBay and a couple other coin auction sites are good references for what coins sell for, BUT YOU HAVE TO SEARCH FOR THE ACTUAL SOLD PRICES and NOT THEIR ASKING PRICES. Anyways, back to why you are here. The following reflects the reality of coin values.

A few simple concepts first.

  • If the coin can be found in change, that is very likely all it is worth.
  • If it is a circulated foreign coin lacking any silver, gold, or platinum and was produced after World War I it is likely bought and sold in five-pound bags. Obviously, there are exceptions to this and if you have one of those ‘modern’ rarer pieces or die varieties we will find it and pay you accordingly for it.
  • Just because someone, or Google, or eBay, or YouTube, told you your coin is rare doesn’t necessarily mean it is. We specialize in Cherrypicker’s pieces and rare die varieties for every series of U.S. Coins.

Now, let us get started…

Every series of coins has Key Dates, even Roosevelt Dimes and Kennedy Halves. Key Dates are the year and mintmark combination that have a much lower mintage than all the other coins in a series or sought after die varieties within virtually every series of U.S. coins.

Here is a list to get you looking. Don’t get discouraged. If you don’t have these dates and mintmark combinations you may still have something special. This is just a brief synopsis of the BEST in each series and some GENERAL prices to get you started. Obviously, prices change with the condition, supply and demand.

CENTS

Did you know that the United States does not make pennies? Try to find the word penny on a U.S. Coin. It isn’t there. We make “cents”. The word penny is a holdover from Great Britain., which makes pennies.

  • Half Cents: Culls to Almost Good (AG) are $3 to $5 each. All others have collectible premiums based on condition and variety.
  • Large Cents: Culls to AG are &5 to $8 each. All others have collectible premiums based on condition and variety.
  • Small Cents (Flying Eagle Cents): Cull to AG are $3 to $5 each. All others have collectible premiums based on condition and variety.
  • Small Cents (Indian Head Cents): Cull to AG are $0.50 each at best. Good and better common dates are generally $0.75 each. All 1859 through 1878 and the 1908-S and 1908-S are numismatic pieces and all “Cherrypicker’s” pieces command premiums:

    1877- $500
    1908-S - $75
    1909-S - $300

  • Small Cents (Wheat Cents circulated common): Average dates are worth about 3 cents each.

    1909-SVDB -$500
    1909-S - $150
    1914-D - $50

    1922 - $100
    1931-S - $40
    1955 Double Die Obverse - $800

  • Small Cents (Memorial Cents): Most are face value or just a bit more. However, there are several semi-key dates and varieties which can carry appreciable numismatic premiums:

    1960-D Small Date over Large Date
    1970-S Small Date
    1972 Double Die Obverse
    1983 Double Die Obverse and Double Die Reverse
    1984 Doubled Ear
    1988 Wide AM with Flared G initial on reverse

    1992 and 1992-D Close AM
    1995 Double Die Obverse
    1996 Apparent Wide AM
    1997 Doubled Ear
    1998-2000 Wide AM
    2009 LP2 Sitting on a Log Extra Thumb varieties.

Nickels

  • Shield Nickels: Cull to AG are $2 to $4 each. All Good and Better Shield Nickels have collectible premiums based on condition and variety.
  • V-Nickels (Liberty Nickels): Culls to Almost Good (AG) are $0.15 each. Common dates in Good or Better are generally $0.25 each.

    1885 - $100
    1886 - $75
    1912-S - $100

  • Buffalo Nickels: Culls to AG are $0.10 each. Good and Better w full dates are $0.25 each.

    1913-S Type 2 (Flat Ground) -$50
    1914-D - $75

    1921-S - $50
    1937-D Three-Legged Buffalo - $350

  • Jefferson Nickels: There are no real rarities in this series. However, there are some dates and mintmarks and a few varieties to look for. Separate these out as they are worth a little premium (1938-D, 1938-S, 1939-D, 1939-S, all war nickels, and 1950-D). During WW II (mid-1942 through 1945) nickel was needed to support our war efforts and was replaced with 35% silver. The mintmark on these ‘silver’ nickels was moved to the top center of the reverse above the dome. A roll of war nickels (40 pieces) amounts to 2.25 oz of actual silver weight. There are a few key varieties to look for too:

    1939- Double Die Reverse - $10
    1943/2-P Overdate Variety - $30

    1943-P Double Die Obverse - $20
    1945-P Double Die Reverse - $20

Silver coins

All have an intrinsic metal value for the silver contained within them. One dollar in face value of 1964 and older dimes, quarters or halves, or any combination of them is 0.715 troy ounces of silver. With silver at $18 per troy ounce that works out to $1.29 per dime, $3.22 per quarter, or $6.44 per half-dollar.

Silver dollars

Those old Morgan and Peace dollars have 0.773 troy ounces of silver in them. At $18 per troy ounce that works out to an intrinsic metal value of $13.91 each. Commonly circulated Peace dollars do not command much of a premium. However, all Morgan dollars do carry a collectible premium unless they are culls to Almost Good (AG).

Dimes

All Dimes pre-dating 1892 will have a collectible premium unless they are culls to AG.

  • Barber Dimes:

    1893-O - $30

  • Mercury Dimes:

    1916-D - $400
    1921 - $30
    1921-D - $25

    1942/41 - $200
    1942-/41-D - $200

  • Roosevelt Dimes:

    1950-S - $8
    1982 Missing Designers Initial or mintmark - $5

Quarters

All quarters pre-dating 1892 will have a collectible premium unless they are culls to AG.

  • Barber Quarters:

    1896-S - $300
    1913-S - $500

  • Standing Liberty Quarters:

    1916 - $2000 (NOT a typo)
    1918/17 - $1500 (Not a typo)

  • Washington Quarters: Look for Doubled “IN GOD WE TRUST” on 1934 through 1943 quarters.

    1932-D - $50
    1932-S - $60
    Several varieties start at $20 and up

  • State and National Park Quarters: SHQ’s and NPQ’s are generally face value or slightly more unless they are in original U.S. Mint wrapped rolls and are from one of the following: PA, TN, IL, USVI. All uncirculated S-Mint National Park Quarter rolls and individual Westpoint mint National Parks quarters carry a collectible premium.

Half Dollars:

All half dollars pre-dating 1892 carry a collectible premium unless they are culls to AG.

Barber Halves:

1893-S - $60
1914 - $40
1915 - $40

Walking Liberty Halves:

1916-P/D/S - $30
1921 - $80
1921-D - $150

1921-S - $30
1938-D - $50

Franklin Halves:

Most early dates have “Bugs Bunny” varieties to look for which carry collectible premiums.

Kennedy Halves:

All 1964s are 90% silver. 1965 -1970 are 40% silver. DO NOT TAKE THEM TO THE BANK! Business strike 1971 to present are generally face value.

1964-D Repunched Mintmark - $15
1967 Quadrupled Obverse Die (Look at the base of T in LIBERTY. - $15
1972 Missing Reverse Designers initials - $5
1982 Missing Reverse Designers Initials -$5

Silver Dollars:

Trade dollars and all Seated and Bust silver dollars predating 1878 have collectible premiums well above their intrinsic metal values. There are a lot of counterfeits out there. The Trade dollars should weigh approximately 27.1 grams while the older seated dollars should be 26.8 grams. Any coin off by more than o,3 grams is likely a counterfeit.

Morgan Dollars:

ALL CARSON CITY Mint Morgans carry appreciable collectible premiums. Morgan Dollars are the most studied series of U.S. Coins. There are numerous varieties in pretty much every date and from every mint that carry collectible premiums. Additionally, there are several other normal Morgan Dollars with hefty premiums such as:

1893-S - $2000
1894 - $600

1895 Proof - $25,000
1903-O - $200

Peace Dollars:

1921- $70
1928 - $250

PLEASE DO NOT CLEAN YOUR COINS. CLEANED COINS WILL LIKELY LOSE UP TO 50% OF THEIR VALUE.


How To Sell Your Coins Without Being Taken For A Ride

There comes a point in our lives when we consider selling our coins. Whether it is for medical expenses, a down payment, or a vacation. There will come a day. It is up to you whether to sell all, part of it, or leave it to your family.

Had I known then what I know now, I would have been better prepared to ensure I got every penny out of that collection. In hindsight, I know “I got taken for a Ride.” So, I decided to share with you the lessons I have learned over the past 35+ years.

PLEASE READ ALL OF THIS BEFORE SELLING YOUR COINS TO ANYONE.

Screen available dealers.

Call several dealers. If you call someone, and they can’t help you, ask for a referral. When you find a dealer, ask them a few questions to determine their knowledge level. Ask them if they specialize in anything, their grading credentials, and what references do they use. Follow your instinct. If they are giving you a sales pitch, and not actually answering your questions, HANG UP. If you don’t think they are not being absolutely straight forward, and upfront with their answers, they most likely lack the honesty and integrity to help you get the most out of your collection.

Prepare your collection.

You can sort and inventory everything beforehand. This not only helps to ensure you are paid for every coin, but will also help the dealer by providing a record of every coin that should be recorded. You can and should validate their appraisal list against your inventory. If any coin is not accounted for, SHOW THEM THE DOOR!

Do NOT clean your coins with anything.

They are worth more as they are. A cleaned coin might as well be a cull coin. If you have cleaned coins, you should expect them to be devalued by at least one full grade. Uncirculated to Almost Uncirculated and Very Fine to Fine. Cleaned coins are hard to resell. When cleaned, there are fine hairline scratches left. Harshly cleaned coins with scrub lines maybe downgraded several grades. The use of cleaning solvents leaves chemical residues in the valleys and pores of the coins. As hard as you try to rinse the solvents off the coins, you will not get it all. A coin’s surface is like the pores in your skin. The residue will further corrode the coin over time.

Schedule the appraisal.

When scheduling your appraisal, let the dealer know what you have so they can have the correct reference materials on hand. Also plan on it taking some time to complete. A good rule of them is that a well-organized shoe box full of individually holdered coins takes about one hour to process. Wherever you go, they will most likely charge you an appraisal fee, especially if it takes a long time. We charge $35 an hour for one person to go through them, and $60 for two of us. If we have to travel to a location, the travel expenses are included, as long as you are within 30 minutes of our shop. The good news is that if we purchase your collection, the appraisal is free.

Test the dealer during the appraisal.

If you have a key or semi-key date coin, place it in a common slot in a folder or album. A reputable dealer will point it out and appraise it correctly. If the dealer fails this test, it means they were not properly appraising every coin or they were intentionally letting it go at a cheaper price. Either way, you lose. So, if they fail, BOOT THEM OUT THE DOOR! Another way to test the dealer is to spot check the grading after the dealer has graded them. If there is a disagreement, the dealer should be able to justify why they recorded the grade as they did. Have them show you in the grading books why. Bear in mind, distracting scratches will downgrade it by at least one grade. If the dealer cannot justify the grade they put on it with confidence, SHOW THEM THE DOOR! They are most likely downgrading it so they can buy for less and sell high.

Demand an appraisal sheet be used.

The sheet should include a complete list of all your coins, their grades, any varieties (recorded in Red Book or “Cherrypickers Guide”), and the latest pricing of the “Coin Dealer Newsletter Greysheet”. Have them show you where the prices come from, and make sure it is for the correct item and grade. If any are incorrect or they don’t want to show you how, GIVE THEM THE BOOT!

Expect that each coin is examined and graded BEFORE price guides are used.

Why? There are dealers who will set the price guides next to the grading standards as they grade the coin. When they see the higher price associated with the higher grade, they may record a lower grade so they can pay you less. If you see this happening, BOOT THE DEALER OUT THE DOOR!

Do NOT expect to get “Red Book” value for your coins.

The “Red Book” is printed months in advance, and the value recorded could be over a year old. The Book represents the most hopeful resale price, and not the current market values. As rarer coins become available on the market, the realized sales price lowers. However, if fewer coins of a particular date are available, the price tends to go up. The reality of the business is that every dealer out there is in it to make a few bucks by reselling your coins. Reselling of your coins may cost the dealer up to 18% of the sales price due to various fees, bills, and taxes. So, if the dealer wants to make 15% profit, he can only pay you 67% of the expected resale price.

Expect the dealer to openly share with you all of their reference material.

If the dealer cannot, or will not share their references, DO NOT SELL THEM YOUR COINS. Those references should include the latest “CDN Greysheet”, at the least. If the dealer you are working with does not have them, DO NOT SELL THEM YOUR COINS! Additional reference materials are dependent on the seller’s advance notification that they have specific coin varieties and errors. The references may include books on silver dollars, “TOP-100 Morgan Dollar Varieties” or “TOP-50 Peace Dollar Varieties”. While Morgan Dollars constitutes the largest area of variety collecting, there are other coin series with known significant varieties that command a premium. Some dealers will show up hoping you know nothing about these other varieties. Most of these significant varieties are listed in the “Cherrypickers’ Guide To Rare Die Varieties of U.S. Coins”. If you have known coin varieties or errors, tell the dealer up front when setting up the appointment. If they don’t show up with these reference material in hand, SHOW THEM THE DOOR! Expect most dealers to charge an extra $3-$5 to verify variety designations. This is time consuming; we DON’T charge extra. Also expect the dealer to bring a copy of the “ANA Grading Standards for United States Coins” or “Making the Grade”. Have them show you how to use the grading standard, and to openly share use of the grading standards. Unfortunately, many “dealers” are cash flow dealers, and don’t even know how to properly grade coins. We will bring the grading standards, and show you how to use them, openly. And yes, I am a certified grader.

DO NOT ALLOW ACID TESTING OF YOUR GOLD, SILVER, OR PLATINUM COINS.

A reputable dealer will have a precious metals spectrometer. It does the same without scratching the coin. Do expect the dealer to verify every gold coin against the “Unites States Gold Counterfeit Detection Guide”. Unfortunately, as much as 15% of the mid and late 1800’s, and early1900’s gold coins are counterfeit. Remember no scraping, scratching, or acid testing of your coins is needed.

Expect the dealer to ask for you identification.

This is required by South Carolina law to deter the selling of stolen goods. SC Law requires the dealer to record your name, race, gender, birthdate, address, and Driver’s license/ legal ID number.

 

Your experience selling our coins should be as memorable as the years you spent collecting them. We will do everything we can to show you we are serious about helping you get the absolute most for you collection. The words in this write up are mine and mine alone. They represent my experiences and opinions. I would greatly appreciate the opportunity to purchase your coins. I am retired Naval Officer, CWO-4 (SS), with 29 years of nuclear and submarine service. My house payments, and my family’s livelihood are not dependent on this business. This is why we can and will pay more for your collection. Remember your collection is yours alone to sell. Do NOT be pressured by ANYONE, dealer, or family, to sell your coins.

 

Questions?

Bill Latour email: lowcountrycoins1@bellsouth.net    shop: 843-763-3463 cell: 843-532-5089


What Happens to Your Coins if Something Happens to You?

I receive this phone call every week:

“My father just passed away. We were going through his stuff and found a bunch of coins. Can you tell me what they are worth?”

If, God forbid, something happens to you, what will your family do with your coins? Will they divide them among each other, fighting the whole time? Will they take them to the local pawn shop? This happens more often than you may realize. Will they take them to a coin dealer? What if they take them to a less than reputable dealer? If he offers them $10,000 cash for your $50,000 collection, do you think they will take it? Let me answer that for you, they will probably be thrilled with $10,000 cash.

Now is the time for you to set them up for success. Sort and inventory your coins. Get an appraisal. Store the coins WITH the appraisal in a safe spot. Make sure your family knows where they are and how to get them (safe combination or security deposit box key location). Place your favorite dealer's business card with the collection so that your family deals with the dealer you trust. Discuss this with your family so they understand.

Call us to schedule an appraisal, and read one of our many articles:  “How To Sell Your Coins Without Being Taken For A Ride”.

Shop: 7800 Rivers Ave, Ste 1010, North Charleston, SC 29406

Phone: 843-763-3463