About Online Shopping off

About Us

We are a Veteran Owned Small Business with over 35K reviews on ebay. To check them out, click here.

Shipping

Your item will ship in a nondescript box or bubble mailer with tracking, signature required, and insurance when necessary.

When ordering multiple items, order them together to save on shipping. Multiple items ordered separately may result in your order being delayed an additional day.

 

Guaranteed Authentic

All our items are 100% Authentic and genuine. We have EXTENSIVE training in counterfeit coins and currency. There is an astronomical amount of counterfeit coins out there. We have intentionally purchased coins directly from China, so that all our employees have them to reference to PREVENT buying them. These coins were used in an actual ANA counterfeit detection class, which was attended by all our employees. We have also won awards for our counterfeit display at coin shows.

Accurate Grading

        

Of course, grading is subjective. It is simply an opinion. You know, everyone has one. We grade strictly in accordance with the ANA Grading Standard. Our Chief Grader, Bill, finished in the top of the ANA Summer Seminar Advanced Grading Class. This class is taught by senior graders at PCGS, NGC, and ANACS. He is also an authorized dealer for these grading services.

Terms & Conditions

  • Item Availability - Please note that we have a retail coin shop, an e-commerce site, and attend an average of two coin shows a month. Sometimes our inventory gets sold locally, and we don’t have a chance to remove it from the site yet. If that happens, we will immediately refund your money. We are literally a small three employee business.
  • Postage - Most of our listings have free shipping. Please bear in mind that our postal charges include actual postage costs, and packaging which is AT LEAST $5 per package. We do not ship internationally, as we had too many "lost packages".
  • Dispatch Times - We normally ship your order via First Class Mail within one day of payment. Unless we are at a show, then the next business day. Once your order has shipped, the tracking information will be automatically uploaded into your eBay account. Your item will probably take up to five days for delivery. We ship thousands of coins a year, about 2% take up to 3-4 weeks. USPS will NOT update the item location in transit, do not expect them to. If the item is lost in the mail (this happens in less than 1% of shipments), we will refund your purchase price. We abide by the USPS definition for a lost item: " not delivered within 30 days of shipment".
  • 100% 14 Day Money Back Guarantee - Most of our items have a NO QUESTIONS ASKED return policy. We really do not mind returns at all. About 1 out of every 100 coins we sell are returned. We do NOT accept returns for certified coins, bullion, or rolls of coins. VERY IMPORTANT: We ONLY accept returns IF and ONLY IF the item has not been removed from the original holder we shipped it in. If you do not love the item, I encourage you to return it.

WATCH OUT FOR THIS SCAM!

Have you ever seen the TV or newspaper ad about buying “Limited Time Only” or “Only 3 easy payments of $xxx” coins or currency?

Well, I hate to break it to you but, those are SCAMS.

 

Here is an example from an unnamed TV network that sells various items. They are selling a 1923 Peace Dollar. The coin is in an ICG holder with a grade of MS65. It also comes in a small display box. They are offering the following payment plans: One-time $234.95, two payments of $117.48, three payments of $78.32, or four payments of $58.74. Now that may seem reasonable to you if you don’t have anything to compare it too. It is a certified coin that is almost 100 years old, and it also is made of silver.

 

Here is something to compare the price to.

According to the coin dealer pricing guide, it is worth $124. If you add an extra 10% for selling it, the new price would be about $137. Sure, you can add $10 for the display case. That puts your total at $147, excluding shipping. Which in the end, is a price of $88 above the coin dealer guide.

 

Here is a SECOND example from a different unnamed online store.

 

There are also selling a 1923 Peace Dollar, but this time uncertified. They categorized it into their grading system, and priced accordingly: “Very Good” $105, “Fine #2” $96.50, “Fine” $107, “Very Fine #2” $98.50, “Very Fine” $109, “Extra Fine #2” $100, “Extra Fine” $111, “About Uncirculated #2” $103, “About Uncirculated” $114, “Choice About Uncirculated” $117, “Uncirculated” $122, and “Choice Uncirculated” $150.

 

The coin dealer price guide’s prices are: “Very Good 8: $28.25”, “Very Good 10: $28.25”, “Fine 12: $28.25”, “Fine 15: $28.25”, “Very Fine 20: $28.25”, “Very Fine 25: $28.25”, “Very Fine 30: $28.25”, “Very Fine 35: $28.25”, “Extra Fine 40: $30”, “Extra Fine 45: $31”, “Almost Uncirculated 50: $32”, “Almost Uncirculated 53: $32”, “Almost Uncirculated 55: $32”, “Almost Uncirculated 58: $33”, “Mint State 60-64: $35-$60”, “Mint State 65: $124”, “Mint State 66: $380”, and “Mint State 67: $3400”

 

Now if you compare their “Extra Fine: $111” to the price guide’s “Extra Fine 45: $31”, there is a price difference of $80. That is a. How about comparing unnamed store’s “Uncirculated” $122 to the Guide’s “Almost Uncirculated 58: $33”. The price difference here is $89.

 

This is a THIRD unnamed online store.

They are selling colorized state quarters. The prices range from $5.75 to $10.25.

We sell them at Four Times Face value, which means One Quarter would be $1. That equals a over a 500% mark up.

 

FOURTH website, if three examples isn’t enough!

They are selling “America Eagle Replica Precious Metal Coin Set” for $98. There are things to certain things to look out for. The description has more information on what they are replicating than the actual tokens themselves. They also don’t even state what the core of the token is, and only state what they are layered with.

Since the main composition is not mentioned, we can assume that they are made of a common non-expensive metal. Which would put the value of each token about $5.

If we assume the total worth is $15, then that is a $83 upcharge.

 

Watch out for the words layered, plated, gilded, colored, satin, polished, and many more. If they look like a coin, legally they must put the word “Copy” on them, otherwise it would be considered counterfeit.

 

The difference between a token, a replica, and a coin is the issuing agency. Tokens are made by non-government entities such as a local arcade. They are only good for that specific area of issue. Replicas are almost exact physical copies of what they are mimicking. Usually, the compositions are different than the original. With a replica coin, they must put the word “Copy” on it, otherwise it is considered counterfeit.  Coins are issued by governments. They can be used anywhere that accepts that local currency. Depending on the age of the coin it can have multiple values.

 

The face value means the value at which the government issues it at. There is the intrinsic value which means the value is in the composition, such as a 1960 Quarter. And there is the Numismatic value (Collectors). This is usually the highest value associated with coins.

 

Example of 1960 Washington Quarter

 

Face Value: $0.25

Intrinsic Value: ~$4.50 worth of silver

Numismatic Value: $700 in MS67 condition

 

Please spread the word, especially to the elderly. These companies also advertise in senior targeted magazines and newspapers. We don’t want them spending their life savings on a scam.


The ONLY Way To Clean Your Coins.

Yes, you can clean your coins. ONLY under certain conditions though.

 

First of all, DO NOT clean your coins unless something is literally harming it, like a corrosive substance.

 

The most common form of corrosion is ionic corrosion, resulting from chloride contamination. Whether it’s from sweaty skin or the chemical breakdown of aging plastics. There are dozens of cleaning solvents for cleaning coins.

DO NOT USE ANY OF CLEANING SOLVENTS

They all will leave trace chemicals within the pores of the coins that cannot be rinsed off and will eventually cause more corrosion than the coin had in the first place.
Conservation of a coin should only be done when it has an active chloride corrosion in progress.

 

We are NOT liable for any damage done to your items. Follow instructions at your own risk.

 

Here is list of items you will need:
The Coin
Non-metallic tongs
Wax paper
Freezer
Boiling water
Microfiber or soft cloth

 

Again, do not use any coin cleaners!

 

Step 1: Ensure the coin is completely dry by placing it under a heated lamp. Each side of the coin should be under the lamp for 15 minutes.

 

Step 2: Place the coin on a piece of wax paper, and then place it in your freezer overnight. The wax paper prevents the coin from freezing to the frost layer in the freezer. Freezing the coin contracts the metal and embrittles the mechanical bonding of the crud on the surfaces of the coin.

 

Step 3: Microwave or boil water. You can use de-ionized water, but it is not necessary for this step. Set the hot water to the side until all the boiling stops, and all bubbles stop forming. Bubbles can strip the surface of the coin if they collapse when in contact with the coin.

 

Step 4: Using a pair of non-metallic spaghetti tongs, take the coin directly from the freezer to the hot water. The rapid re-expansion of the coin from the thermal shock helps to further break the contaminants mechanical bonds to the coin. After holding the coin in the water for 20 seconds, you can remove the coin and gently set it on a clean surface. At this point you can dab the coin with a Q-tip to remove loose contaminants. DO NOT WIPE THE COIN with the Q-tip or any cloth, as the cotton can scratch the surface of the coin.

 

Step 5. Dab off any remaining moisture, with a microfiber or soft cloth, then place the coin under a heated lamp. Each side should be under the lamp for 15 minutes to fully dry the surface and pores of the coin.

 

Step 6. Inspect the coin for contaminants and crud. If still present, repeat steps 1 through 5 above. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO FORCIBLY REMOVE ANY CRUD with anything. Even the use of a cut Q-tip or turkey feather can scratch the coin or abrade the coin surface under the crud.

 

In our experience, minor chloride corrosion (sticky feel and/or snotty light green color) will be fully removed by this process in one or two cycles, without impacting the original patina of the coin. Coins with carbon crud may take 3 or 4 cycles. If they have heavy thick crud, it may take as many as 10 cycles.

 

In the end, the coin will be much ‘cleaner’ without having used any harmful coin cleaners.


What Is Worth Getting Appraised?

Have you ever wondered if your 1776-1976 Quarter or Half Dollar is worth more than face value?

The general rule of thumb is that if you got it in change, and unless it’s an error or variety, it is worth face value.

 

BRING IN:

U.S. Government Packaging (U.S. Mint): Proof Sets, Mint Sets, and Commemoratives
Precious Metals: Gold Bullion (99%), Silver Bullion (99%), Titanium, Platinum, Palladium, Gold and Silver Coins.

 

DOLLARS:
Presidential: 2007-2020 Missing Edge Lettering ONLY
Sacagawea: 2000-P Cheerios, Detailed Tail Feathers
Susan B. Anthony: 1979-P Near Date/Wide Rim
Eisenhower: Silver and Clad. The clad are worth face value, but banks don’t like them.
They might even tell you to bring them to us.
Any Dollar 1935 and Older

 

HALF DOLLARS:
All Half Dollars 1964 and older are 90% Silver
All Half dollars 1965 through 1970 are 40% Silver
1992-S to Present-S Uncirculated Silver Proof: some have Silver, others are copper-nickel. When you look on the rim, if it is white, it is likely Silver.

 

QUARTERS:
All Quarters 1964 and older are 90% Silver
1992-S to Present-S Uncirculated Silver Proof: some have Silver, others are copper-nickel. When you look on the rim, if it is white, it is likely Silver.
“W” West Point Mintmark on National Park 2019-2020

 

DIMES:
All Dimes 1964 and older are 90% Silver
1992-S to Present-S Uncirculated Silver Proof: some have Silver, others are copper-nickel. When you look on the Rim, if it is white, it is likely Silver.

 

NICKELS:
War Nickels 1942-P to 1945 have 35% Silver (Mintmark above Monticello’s dome)
Any Jefferson Nickel (pre-1960)
All 1937 and Older (Buffalo, Liberty, Shield, 3 Cent Nickels, & 3 Cent Silver)

 

CENTS:
Any Cent 1958 and older (including Half, Large, 2 Cents, and 3 Cents)

 

CURRENCY:
Any 1934 and Older, including Confederate, Obsolete, Fractional, and "Hawaii" Note, 'Yellow Seal' North Africa
Military Payment Certificate (MPC)
Barr Notes: Series 1963B are worth $1.50 - $3.00

 

FOREIGN:
Any precious metal such as Gold or Silver.
General Rule is anything older than World War I (1918)
We will buy ALL foreign coins.

 

For more information on some specific coins, read our article, “What is my coin worth?”

 

Now that you have a general idea, we ask that you please pre-sort your items before coming in. It will help the process go faster. Please sort by denomination then type. For example, separate the Indian Head Cents from the Wheat Cents, the silver Dimes from the non-silver ones, and the Large Notes from Small Notes. Plastic baggies and envelopes are fine for temporary storage.

 

If you have a significant number of items, we also ask that you please make an appointment. That way if we already have a large estate coming, you won’t have to wait.

 

P.S. Do NOT clean any of it.

 

TAKE TO THE BANK OR SPEND:

 

DOLLARS:
Circulated Presidential, Sacagawea, Native American, and Susan B. Anthony

 

HALF DOLLARS:
1971 to Present, including Bicentennial

 

QUARTERS:
1965 to Present, including Bicentennial

 

DIMES:
1965 to Present

 

NICKELS:
1938 to Present, excluding War Nickels mentioned above.

 

CENTS:
1959 to Present

 

CURRENCY:
1935 to Present, including regular size Silver Certificates. You can bring in the 'Modern' Series that are worth Face Value, such as 1960's. When a new collector comes in, we would trade them Face Value to help them get started collecting. Otherwise, banks have to send them off and the Government shreds them.

 

FOREIGN:
Some Banks will Exchange with you if you are a member. They will only take Current Currencies such as: GBP, CAD, AUD, and NZD. Call your local bank for details. We do exchange some currencies.

 

For more information on some specific coins, read our article, “What is my coin worth?”

 

And of course, there are always exceptions to every rule.

 

Now that you have a general idea, we ask that you please pre-sort your items before coming in. It will help the process go faster. Please sort by denomination then type. For example, separate the Indian Head Cents from the Wheat Cents, the silver Dimes from the non-silver ones, and the Large Notes from Small Notes. Plastic baggies and envelopes are fine for temporary storage.

 

If you have a significant number of items, we also ask that you please make an appointment. That way if we already have a large estate coming, you won’t have to wait.


How To Sell Your Coins Without Being Taken For A Ride

There comes a point in our lives when we consider selling our coins. Whether it is for medical expenses, a down payment, or a vacation. There will come a day. It is up to you whether to sell all, part of it, or leave it to your family.

Had I known then what I know now, I would have been better prepared to ensure I got every penny out of that collection. In hindsight, I know “I got taken for a Ride.” So, I decided to share with you the lessons I have learned over the past 35+ years.

PLEASE READ ALL OF THIS BEFORE SELLING YOUR COINS TO ANYONE.

Screen available dealers.

Call several dealers. If you call someone, and they can’t help you, ask for a referral. When you find a dealer, ask them a few questions to determine their knowledge level. Ask them if they specialize in anything, their grading credentials, and what references do they use. Follow your instinct. If they are giving you a sales pitch, and not actually answering your questions, HANG UP. If you don’t think they are not being absolutely straight forward, and upfront with their answers, they most likely lack the honesty and integrity to help you get the most out of your collection.

Prepare your collection.

You can sort and inventory everything beforehand. This not only helps to ensure you are paid for every coin, but will also help the dealer by providing a record of every coin that should be recorded. You can and should validate their appraisal list against your inventory. If any coin is not accounted for, SHOW THEM THE DOOR!

Do NOT clean your coins with anything.

They are worth more as they are. A cleaned coin might as well be a cull coin. If you have cleaned coins, you should expect them to be devalued by at least one full grade. Uncirculated to Almost Uncirculated and Very Fine to Fine. Cleaned coins are hard to resell. When cleaned, there are fine hairline scratches left. Harshly cleaned coins with scrub lines maybe downgraded several grades. The use of cleaning solvents leaves chemical residues in the valleys and pores of the coins. As hard as you try to rinse the solvents off the coins, you will not get it all. A coin’s surface is like the pores in your skin. The residue will further corrode the coin over time.

Schedule the appraisal.

When scheduling your appraisal, let the dealer know what you have so they can have the correct reference materials on hand. Also plan on it taking some time to complete. A good rule of them is that a well-organized shoe box full of individually holdered coins takes about one hour to process. Wherever you go, they will most likely charge you an appraisal fee, especially if it takes a long time. We charge $35 an hour for one person to go through them, and $60 for two of us. If we have to travel to a location, the travel expenses are included, as long as you are within 30 minutes of our shop. The good news is that if we purchase your collection, the appraisal is free.

Test the dealer during the appraisal.

If you have a key or semi-key date coin, place it in a common slot in a folder or album. A reputable dealer will point it out and appraise it correctly. If the dealer fails this test, it means they were not properly appraising every coin or they were intentionally letting it go at a cheaper price. Either way, you lose. So, if they fail, BOOT THEM OUT THE DOOR! Another way to test the dealer is to spot check the grading after the dealer has graded them. If there is a disagreement, the dealer should be able to justify why they recorded the grade as they did. Have them show you in the grading books why. Bear in mind, distracting scratches will downgrade it by at least one grade. If the dealer cannot justify the grade they put on it with confidence, SHOW THEM THE DOOR! They are most likely downgrading it so they can buy for less and sell high.

Demand an appraisal sheet be used.

The sheet should include a complete list of all your coins, their grades, any varieties (recorded in Red Book or “Cherrypickers Guide”), and the latest pricing of the “Coin Dealer Newsletter Greysheet”. Have them show you where the prices come from, and make sure it is for the correct item and grade. If any are incorrect or they don’t want to show you how, GIVE THEM THE BOOT!

Expect that each coin is examined and graded BEFORE price guides are used.

Why? There are dealers who will set the price guides next to the grading standards as they grade the coin. When they see the higher price associated with the higher grade, they may record a lower grade so they can pay you less. If you see this happening, BOOT THE DEALER OUT THE DOOR!

Do NOT expect to get “Red Book” value for your coins.

The “Red Book” is printed months in advance, and the value recorded could be over a year old. The Book represents the most hopeful resale price, and not the current market values. As rarer coins become available on the market, the realized sales price lowers. However, if fewer coins of a particular date are available, the price tends to go up. The reality of the business is that every dealer out there is in it to make a few bucks by reselling your coins. Reselling of your coins may cost the dealer up to 18% of the sales price due to various fees, bills, and taxes. So, if the dealer wants to make 15% profit, he can only pay you 67% of the expected resale price.

Expect the dealer to openly share with you all of their reference material.

If the dealer cannot, or will not share their references, DO NOT SELL THEM YOUR COINS. Those references should include the latest “CDN Greysheet”, at the least. If the dealer you are working with does not have them, DO NOT SELL THEM YOUR COINS! Additional reference materials are dependent on the seller’s advance notification that they have specific coin varieties and errors. The references may include books on silver dollars, “TOP-100 Morgan Dollar Varieties” or “TOP-50 Peace Dollar Varieties”. While Morgan Dollars constitutes the largest area of variety collecting, there are other coin series with known significant varieties that command a premium. Some dealers will show up hoping you know nothing about these other varieties. Most of these significant varieties are listed in the “Cherrypickers’ Guide To Rare Die Varieties of U.S. Coins”. If you have known coin varieties or errors, tell the dealer up front when setting up the appointment. If they don’t show up with these reference material in hand, SHOW THEM THE DOOR! Expect most dealers to charge an extra $3-$5 to verify variety designations. This is time consuming; we DON’T charge extra. Also expect the dealer to bring a copy of the “ANA Grading Standards for United States Coins” or “Making the Grade”. Have them show you how to use the grading standard, and to openly share use of the grading standards. Unfortunately, many “dealers” are cash flow dealers, and don’t even know how to properly grade coins. We will bring the grading standards, and show you how to use them, openly. And yes, I am a certified grader.

DO NOT ALLOW ACID TESTING OF YOUR GOLD, SILVER, OR PLATINUM COINS.

A reputable dealer will have a precious metals spectrometer. It does the same without scratching the coin. Do expect the dealer to verify every gold coin against the “Unites States Gold Counterfeit Detection Guide”. Unfortunately, as much as 15% of the mid and late 1800’s, and early1900’s gold coins are counterfeit. Remember no scraping, scratching, or acid testing of your coins is needed.

Expect the dealer to ask for you identification.

This is required by South Carolina law to deter the selling of stolen goods. SC Law requires the dealer to record your name, race, gender, birthdate, address, and Driver’s license/ legal ID number.

 

Your experience selling our coins should be as memorable as the years you spent collecting them. We will do everything we can to show you we are serious about helping you get the absolute most for you collection. The words in this write up are mine and mine alone. They represent my experiences and opinions. I would greatly appreciate the opportunity to purchase your coins. I am retired Naval Officer, CWO-4 (SS), with 29 years of nuclear and submarine service. My house payments, and my family’s livelihood are not dependent on this business. This is why we can and will pay more for your collection. Remember your collection is yours alone to sell. Do NOT be pressured by ANYONE, dealer, or family, to sell your coins.

 

Questions?

Bill Latour email: lowcountrycoins1@bellsouth.net    shop: 843-763-3463 cell: 843-532-5089


What Happens to Your Coins if Something Happens to You?

I receive this phone call every week:

“My father just passed away. We were going through his stuff and found a bunch of coins. Can you tell me what they are worth?”

If, God forbid, something happens to you, what will your family do with your coins? Will they divide them among each other, fighting the whole time? Will they take them to the local pawn shop? This happens more often than you may realize. Will they take them to a coin dealer? What if they take them to a less than reputable dealer? If he offers them $10,000 cash for your $50,000 collection, do you think they will take it? Let me answer that for you, they will probably be thrilled with $10,000 cash.

Now is the time for you to set them up for success. Sort and inventory your coins. Get an appraisal. Store the coins WITH the appraisal in a safe spot. Make sure your family knows where they are and how to get them (safe combination or security deposit box key location). Place your favorite dealer's business card with the collection so that your family deals with the dealer you trust. Discuss this with your family so they understand.

Call us to schedule an appraisal, and read one of our many articles:  “How To Sell Your Coins Without Being Taken For A Ride”.

Shop: 7800 Rivers Ave, Ste 1010, North Charleston, SC 29406

Phone: 843-763-3463